(by peter)

We have just had some very special freebies passed our way and we want to share!

Here’s the deal: the next people to book two places on one of our autumn wine courses and quote the code ‘WWS-WIN’ can win one of two very special prizes – your choice as long as stocks last!

Prizes will be awarded on a strictly first-come first-served basis and our verdict is final.

Other than that: go for it! We look forward to hearing from you.

You can contact us by email or during office hours on our telephone number (01962) 864717.

OPTION 1

We have, courtesy of The Diablo Supper Club, two pairs of tickets to give away, one each to exclusive five-course wine-and-food-matching extravaganzas at Harvey Nichols in Manchester (Weds 6th Oct) and London (Thurs 7th Oct).

Peter is co-hosting the dinners with Casillero del Diablo winemaker and all-round Chilean legend Marcelo Papa. For more information, or to buy tickets, click here.

OPTION 2

The good people at Dorling Kindersley publishers have very kindly afforded us a few copies of the brand new, hugely ambitious wine book The Wine Opus (RRP £50).

Hot off the presses, this lavishly illustrated tome features the work of some of the wine world’s top experts (including a blushing Peter on South America) and is described as ‘the most ambitious illustrated wine reference to be written in the last 20 years’.

It should be worth a peek, and will sit nicely on even the least fervent wine lover’s book shelf.

This prize is available only after official publication on 1^st October 2010.

(by Jo Pratt; intro by peter)

Culinary artiste Jo Pratt – the Winchester Wine School’s very favourite food person – is weaving her typical magic again with this gorgeous steak-and-salsa recipe.

This originally appeared in our August newsletter and makes for a great late summer recipe, whether you do it on the BBQ or in a pan.

To sign up to receive our free newsletter, which features Jo’s recipes as well as our top tips for the best wine bargains on the high street right now, please click here.

You can check out Jo’s excellent new website at www.jopratt.co.uk

JO PRATT’S MARINATED SIRLOIN STEAKS WITH SALSA VERDE

If you’re after something a little different to cook next time you have a barbeque, you really must give this recipe a go. Marinating the steaks gives them extra moisture and such a delicious flavour. Serve with some cooked mushrooms, onion rings and a good portion of chunky chips, or fresh baguette to make a steak sandwich.

Serves 4

• 4 sirloin steaks

• 1 bunch flat leaf parsley, chopped
• half bunch oregano, chopped
• 1 clove of garlic, peeled and crushed
• 1 heaped tsp Dijon mustard
• grated zest of 1 lemon
• 3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tbsp red wine vinegar

First of all, a couple of hours before you have you plan to eat, the Salsa Verde can be prepared, some of which is to be used to marinade the steaks. Mix together all of the ingredients and season with a twist of black pepper. You shouldn’t need any salt as the anchovies will add a natural saltiness to the salsa.

Place the steaks in a shallow dish, and add a couple of spoons of the salsa verde. Using your hands, rub this into the steaks. They can now be left to marinade in the fridge for a couple of hours.

When you are ready to cook the steaks, wipe away any excess marinade and place on a hot barbeque (or in a hot griddle or frying pan if the weather lets you down), cooking for just 3-4 minutes each side (for a 2.5cm thick steak). Remove from the heat and leave to rest for a few minutes.

Serve the cooked steaks with the remaining Salsa Verde spooned over, with your chosen accompaniments.

PS…

Lamb leg steaks are equally as delicious with this Salsa Verde.

Peter & Susie’s wine choice: La Pompadour Corbières 2007, Castelmaure, Vendanges Humaines (£11.99, Direct Wines)

(by peter & susie)

We are thrilled to announce the guest star appearance, for one night only, of the quite brilliant Helen Masters, winemaker at fabled New Zealand wine producer Ata Rangi.

We were lucky enough to visit Ata Rangi during our trip in February. Not only did we enjoy a brilliant, not to mention highly instructive visit and tasting but we also got to savour a fantastically convivial supper at Helen’s home.

(You can read Susie’s report of our visit and dinner here. And below is the video of our thoroughly enjoyable dinner, with Helen setting the scene…)

Ata Rangi is one of New Zealand’s great producers. It enjoys an enviable reputation as one of this country’s established greats – in recognition of which it was recently named one of New Zealand’s best two Pinot Noir producers, along with Felton Road, at the Pinot Noir symposium in Wellington.

Helen has kindly agreed to make a guest appearance at our Back to Basics Plus (formerly Intermediate) course on Sunday 26^th September, 7-8.30pm, at the Hotel du Vin, Winchester. She’ll be bringing along a couple of bottles and giving us an insight into one of New Zealand’s – if not the world’s – finest wine estates.

We can’t tell you how excited we are. Places are limited and will no doubt sell fast, so please do book early.

Alongside Helen’s appearance we’ll also be running our normal B2B Plus course which is ideal for those who know a little but would like to know more. By way of testimonial, Sean came along to our spring course and said the following:

‘Excellent evening: very much enjoyed it. I can safely say that I learnt more from you both on that evening, than on all my previous wine tasting events put together.’

As an extra incentive, the Hotel du Vin is kindly offering Winchester Wine School tasters two-for-one on glasses of wine and bottles of beer before the event, as well as dessert on the house if you pre-book a three-course dinner.

And if you’d like to have a look at the other courses we’re running this autumn, please click here.

(by peter)

Continuing the theme of our ‘And finally…’ compilations, three news items have caught my eye over the last few days.

With two of them, I didn’t know whether the appropriate response should be raucous mirth or head-in-hands bewilderment.

And with one, there was both laughter and tears – but the latter were a direct result of the former. (If you’re in need of a really good wine-related belly laugh, fast-forward to the end of this piece for the link.)

First up, then, is the news that a tasting of top Pinot Noirs by a panel of wine experts and collectors in Singapore firmly established the best producing area as – not Vosne-Romanée, not Sonoma, not Martinborough – but Austria.

This a trick that Austria has pulled on a few occasions lately, and works as a brilliant PR stunt.

Supposedly iconic wine producers are pitted against Austria’s best in a blind taste-off with wine savvy judges. And, more often than not, Austria comes out smelling of roses.

They’ve done it when comparing Grüner Veltliners with top Chardonnays from around the world. Then it was Sauvignon Blancs. Now Pinot Noir.

The latter strikes a chord because Pinot is THE wine lover’s grape. Reaction to the result has been a mixture of incredulity and renewed interest and admiration for Austrian Pinot – tempered with a healthy dose of cynicism regarding Austria’s form with giant-killing exercises.

The Singapore tasting took place on 4^th August; judges included local press, sommeliers, wine collectors and importers.

By way of summary, 12 of the top 20 wines (34 were judged in total) were Austrian. The top-rated wine of the tasting was Wieninger’s Pinot Noir Grand Select 2004, with open water between it and the 2^nd best wine: the altogether more celebrated (and pricey) name of Comte Georges de Vogüe’s Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru 2005.

For more details, click on this link. The top 10 rated wines (lifted from the web page) were as below:

1 Wieninger, Pinot Noir Grand Select 2004, Wien (Vienna), Austria

2 Comte Georges de Vogüè: Chambolle-Musigny, 1er Cru 2005, Burgundy

3 JR Reinisch, Pinot Noir “Holzspur” Grand Reserve 2007, Thermenregion, Austria

4 Markowitsch, Pinot Noir Reserve 2004, Carnuntum, Austria

5 Felton Road: Pinot Noir, Block 5, 2006, New Zealand

6 Schloss Halbturn, Pinot Noir 2004, Burgenland, Austria

7 Schneider, Pinot Noir Reserve 2004, Thermenregion, Austria

8 DRC Vosne-Romanée, 1er Cru 2006, Burgundy

9 Paul Achs, Pinot Noir 2004, Burgenland, Austria

10 Georges Roumier: Chambolle-Musigny “Les Cras”, 1er 2006, Burgundy

Incredulity was also the order of the day when I was reading the morning news and happened to stumble across a story of Winchester’s answer to Robin Hood.

I was in town yesterday and had heard there’d been a robbery at Barclay’s bank, and locals at the nearby pubs had been somehow involved.

The Guardian filled me in on the hilarious missing links.

Apparently, a bank robber (claiming – falsely – to be armed) had lifted £1,600 in cash from Barclay’s bank in Winchester, before heading outside and scattering the swag in the breeze.

Local booze-hounds enjoying a crafty mid-morning pint rushed to pounce on the spoils.

Police are currently ‘appealing to the better nature of Winchester residents’ to return the loot as ‘evidence’.

Currently the estimated amount of cash recovered stands at…£300.

Might the police have been better off searching the coffers of the quiz machines and pork scratching vendors in the area..?

Finally, here’s another inspired video which utterly disproves the myth that wine and hilarity don’t make easy bedfellows.

It’s a bit wine-centric (and the language is mildly fruity, so be prepared) but the concept and delivery is top class. We genuflect in homage.

(by susie)

Do you like your holidays to be of the delicious variety?

Or perhaps you fancy re-living some gastro memories from recent times spent abroad?

Either way, I have a suggestion for you – which also works as a fine excuse to feature another fantastic Jo Pratt recipe, accompanied by my wine matching tips.

I’ve just done some work for a company called www.villarenters.com.

They wanted to promote some of their holiday properties on the basis of their gastronomic credentials – ie if they were close to top local markets or restaurants, or had great cooking facilities or dining areas.

So they asked celebrity chef (and resident Winchester Wine School star) Jo Pratt to come up with some locally themed dishes, and me to come up with suitably local and delicious wine matches accordingly.

They called this initiative Gastro Villas (you can also navigate your way to this via the box on their home page).

We think it’s a great concept – whether you’re a travel-loving foodie who wants to book through them, or simply searching for authentic European food experiences.

As a taster, we’re reproducing one of the recipes and my wine suggestions as below.

Bon appétit – and bon voyage!

Jo Pratt’s… RISOTTO

Making risotto is remarkably easy, however the key is to be patient and not to rush the cooking time – simply relax and enjoy stirring the rice as it cooks. You’re on holiday so relaxing really shouldn’t be difficult!

This recipe is for a basic Parmesan risotto (Risotto Bianco). If you fancy adding a few additional flavours, have a read of the suggestions at the end of the recipe.

Serves 4

• 1 tbsp olive oil
• About 50g butter (around one fifth of a pack)
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
• 2 stalks of celery, finely chopped
• about 1.2 litres vegetable or chicken stock (see PS note)
• 400g risotto rice (arborio, vialone nano and carnaroli)
• 1 large glass of dry white wine
• 2 good handfuls of finely grated parmesan cheese

Heat a large frying or sauté pan over a medium heat and add the olive oil, and half of the butter. Once the butter is bubbling, add the onion, garlic and celery. Cook until they are softened but not coloured.

Meanwhile, place the stock in a saucepan and keep over a low heat so it is kept hot.

Add the rice and stir for a minute or so until the grains become translucent. Stir in the wine and cook until it has evaporated.

Add a ladleful of the hot stock to the rice and turn the heat down so the stock simmers. Stir continuously until the stock is absorbed. Continue adding ladles of hot stock, one at a time, stirring all the time. It will take around 15-18 minutes. Once the rice is soft but with a slight bite it is ready. If you run out of stock – just use some boiling water.

The risotto is now ready to be finished by seasoning with salt and pepper, and stirring the parmesan and remaining butter. Cover with a lid and leave to become extra creamy for a couple of minutes before serving.

PS…

If you don’t have a measuring jug, you can always use a washed out wine bottle to measure the amount of stock to use. Standard wine bottles are 750ml.

For a Courgette, Parmesan and Basil Risotto, sauté two medium diced courgettes in 1 tbsp olive oil until tender. Stir into the risotto with the parmesan cheese and a good handful of finely sliced basil leaves. Serve with shavings of parmesan and basil leaves.

For an Artichoke and Thyme Risotto, add the leaves from a small bunch of thyme to the onion, garlic and celery when sautéing in oil. When you are close to adding the last ladle of stock to the pan, stir in a couple of good handfuls of sliced marinated artichokes. Finish the risotto with the butter and parmesan as the recipe states.

For a Tomato and Basil Risotto, gently cook a punet of halved cherry tomatoes, 2 cloves of crushed garlic and a small bunch of torn basil leaves in olive oil for a couple of minutes. Stir into the risotto with the Parmesan and butter.

Susie’s wine selections…

Forget about the rice, it all hangs on the type of risotto you are cooking when it comes choosing a perfect wine. Here are some traditional Italian matches for Jo’s delicious recipes:

Courgette, Parmesan and Basil

A simple, refreshing Italian white such as a Soave, a Gavi or good quality Pinot Grigio from Trentino is all that’s needed to set off this delightful Italian classic.

Artichoke and Thyme

A zesty Verdicchio di Matelica should cope admirably with the tricky artichokes in this recipe, as well as enhancing the heady aromas of the thyme.

Tomato and Basil

Bursting with soft, red cherry fruit, a light and refreshing Valpolicella will work brilliantly with the tomato as well as picking up on the aromatic notes of the basil.

(by peter)

The joy of wine can often be found in the most unexpected of places.

Take this video, for example.

People often make the mistake of thinking that the world of wine is an earnest but largely humourless and unimaginative place, peopled by sour-faced paysans, hard-nosed salesmen and pretentious quaffers.

But a brilliantly kitsch video, starring an Anthea Turner look-alike in pixie boots and a tap-shaped USB, which downloads wine direct from your computer?

Comic genius.

(Don’t worry about the French voice-over. You don’t need to understand it – and it wouldn’t be nearly so funny without it.)

On the subject of leftfield visions of wine, my first book, Wineries with Style, was on the architecture of wineries around the world.

While I was doing the research for the book, I remember being ushered in for an audience with one of Burgundy’s most respected – and intimidating – winemakers, Anne Claude Leflaive of Domaine Leflaive.

I remember thinking at the time: why does she want to see me..? Never a lady for inane politesse, Mme Leflaive abruptly enquired what exactly I was doing there. I explained I was writing a book on the architecture of wineries.

‘Yes, that’s what I’d heard,’ she mused. ‘But I just needed to hear it from you to be sure you were actually doing such an odd thing.’

I’m glad to say that, since I published the book, a fair few more have emerged on the subject, in recognition of the slew of stunning new wineries that have been built over the last decade.

Frank Gehry, Norman Foster, Santiago Calatrava, Richard Rogers, Zaha Hadid, Rafael Moneo, Ricardo Bofill, Herzog & de Meuron – all have had made a contribution to the world of wine in recent times. They follow on from a distinguished list that includes Gustave Eiffel, Puig i Cadafalch, and the great Andrea Palladio himself.

It’s clearly a subject that is catching people’s attention. Topical testament to which is this article in The Independent by Jay Merrick, which also features a very nice plug for my book (thanks, Jay!)

Most such features and books take an overtly architectural viewpoint – the language either studiously florid or diligently dry. With Wineries, I try to make the book a bit more of a story, looking at the old and the new, as well as the people and places that make sense of it all.

And, like with our Back to Basics course, there are plenty of odd little factoids to humour the inquisitive – such as the fact that the Old English term for body was an architectural term, full of imaginative power: ban-hus, or the ‘bone house’.

A little piece of prose turned poetry – the naked human frame made architecture.

I don’t know why, but little things like that really make me happy.

Anyway, plug over. But, as a parting shot on the subject of architecture, Jay’s article discusses Richard Rogers’ Protos winery in Ribera, which Susie visited recently. Her view was that it was very impressive – cavernous, dramatic in a concrete starship kind of way. But also verging on the ruinous – budgeted at 18 million Euros, it apparently ended up coming in at nearer 40 million…

Finally on the subject of the unexpected: a 2003 vintage champagne by Bollinger.

Why unexpected? Well, 2003 was the heat-wave year, when very few champagne houses released a vintage. (Ordinarily, vintage champagne is only made in years when the growing season’s conditions produce relatively well-balanced grapes; in 2003, the heat meant acidities were low and sugars high – never a good thing in champagne.)

But Bollinger wanted to do something different, so they created a unique label and produced small quantities of what came to be 2003 by Bollinger.

We opened it with some friends and drank it overlooking the sun-kissed English Channel.

The verdict was mixed. It was interesting to try, certainly enjoyable to drink, but lacked that polished, invigorating structure and freshness that characterises Bollinger’s best wines.

Susie and I – not entirely contrary to form – disagreed.

She thought it was, surprisingly, still a little young, a bit raw. I thought it showed some pleasant evolution in its buttery, bready flavours but lacked the acidity and freshness to be great, as well as to age and improve significantly.

So I guess we’ll have to try it again, for argument’s sake, in another five or ten year’s time. But ultimately we both rated it the same: 6.5/10. A decent, pleasant, faithful representation of its vintage and house: hardly thrilling.

Nonetheless, an enjoyable taste of the unexpected.

(by peter)

Prior to my lunch date at Terroirs with Susie (plus dozing baby), I had been attending an event at the Royal College of Physicians in which the UK was described as being in the grip of a ‘raging epidemic’ attributable to alcohol, a substance branded ‘a corporate-borne disease like mosquitoes carry malaria’. (More of which scientific harrumphing you can read on my immediately preceding blog entitled ‘Corporate-borne disease’.)

Time for a drink, and a meditation on the positive, life-affirming, profoundly civilising side of alcohol.

Which is precisely what Terroirs delivered – with aplomb.

This classic French eatery, modelled on Parisian natural wine bars, is situated in London’s West End, yards from Charing Cross station and Trafalgar Square.

When we arrived, lunch service was in full swing. The sunken levels were packed full, with jawing city types rubbing shoulders with young couples and professional noshers, all set against a backdrop of a buzzing open kitchen.

It was an eclectic, eye-catching tableau, full of life, which spilled out onto the pavement like froth from an overly exuberant beaker of champagne.

Sitting down, the environment felt agreeably hugger-mugger, like a rustic Club Gascon (in Susie’s words), with a stylised French decor that isn’t so overdone it feels oppressive.

We, plus dormant infant, were accommodated with grace and efficiency. In fact, all round the service was superb. For example, our young waiter proved to be exceptionally well informed about both the wines and food – not afraid to admit when his knowledge reached its limits, and resisting the urge to impose his views too much. This was rare excellence.

We kicked off with a glass of Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut NV (£8.50 per glass) – a perfect antidote to an excess of science (and the perfect answer to a warm summer’s day in London).

Our waiter had suggested a glass of slightly sparkling Chacoli for the same purpose – an inspired idea, but it usually takes a few more wild horses to get Susie to see past the champagne list. But it’s this kind of deliciously off-beat vision that permeates this place, its food and its wines, and what ultimately makes it so enjoyable.

Our first morsels of Terrroirs came courtesy of a selection of charcuterie, including pork & pistachio terrine, duck rillettes and Saucisson ‘Noir de Bigorre’, served with cornichons and pickled onions. It was a good size, and the terrine and rillettes in particular were outstanding in their succulent meatiness and sublime seasoning.

We ordered a couple of glasses to go with it. One was the pleasantly summer-fruited VdT Gamay de Raisins Gaulois, Dmne Marcel Lapierre (£6.40), the other a more disconcertingly cloudy, cider-scented white, VdP de l’Ardeche Viognier/Roussanne, Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet (£9.70). The latter was fascinating, if not particularly to our taste, with aromas of baked apricot and clotted cream, and a mouth-coating, spicy, pithy palate – like swallowing a piece of warm brioche soaked in Armagnac and smothered in apricot jam and clotted cream.

Clearly, this was no ordinary wine list.

This fact was later confirmed when we ordered our last, but best, glass: the wonderfully off-beat ‘Le Cousin’ Grolleau Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Olivier Cousin (£7.50).

For a supposedly lowly grape variety, this particular Grolleau delivered princely elegance, with aromas of fresh-cut flowers, graphite and meaty, savoury edges. On the palate it was light, juicy and refreshing, perfect for summer lunch time, but with lovely succulent rusticity and character. In Susie’s words, it was like the Gamay’s naughty younger cousin – a maverick, but irresistibly so.

All three wines worked as versatile matches to the smorgasbord of dishes we tried.

By far the most impressive of these was the absolutely sensational smoked cod’s roe with pickled cucumber and soft boiled egg. I don’t much care for cucumber, nor Susie egg, but this was the kind of dish that makes the room go quiet and the clock tick slow. We’d suggest that it is one of London’s defining dishes – it has to be tried to be believed.

Our other dishes, in order of preference, were: Lincolnshire smoked eel with celeriac remoulade, steak tartare, champignons a la grecque and Hampshire buffalo mozzarella with lemon and mint. Only the last two were somewhat underwhelming – the mozzarella in particular a bit too chewy and lacking in flavour (we’d had some from Laverstoke Park recently which was delicious – see this post for more details).

Before we left on our gastronomic high, we had a word with some of the senior staff, one of whom mentioned that advanced negotiations were underway concerning a new venue for the Terroirs stable in London, and that positive news was expected soon.

Given the extremely high calibre of Terroirs, this is excellent news.

(by peter)

Last week I attended a fascinating event at the Royal College of Physicians in which alcohol was described as, ‘a corporate-borne disease, like mosquitoes carry malaria’.

Clearly not my usual stomping ground.

This event was a book launch for the second edition of Alcohol: No Ordinary Commodity (Oxford University Press).

In essence, the book provides a compilation, review and analysis of the latest evidence-based research into alcohol. Its aim is to inform public policy makers and encourage a global approach to regulating alcohol far more tightly than it has been to date.

To give you an idea of the findings, which I elaborate on below, the notion that education is an effective means of regulating the detrimental effects of alcohol on society is largely rubbished in this study. Instead, the most effective measures are found to be taxation/raising pricing and regulating the physical availability of alcohol.

The event was presented by three of the book’s authors (there are 15 in total, all leading academics in the field of alcohol and addiction study). They were Griffith Edwards DM (National Addiction Centre, London), Thomas Babor, PhD, MPH (University of Conneticut) and Sally Casswell, PhD (Massey University, Auckland).

The opening address was made by Prof Edwards, a senior member of the authoring team. His fellow authors praised him as being one of the prime movers behind this book.

He described the book’s aim as, ‘simple: to provide an updated and reliable scientific base for alcohol policy’.

So far so good.

He then went on to note that the book’s previous edition was the object of an attempted smear campaign by the Portman Group, which he described as ‘a front organisation’ of the kind that ‘are very effective in influencing governments to deploy totally useless policies’.

In fact, much of Prof Edwards’ address was concerned with lambasting the book’s perceived detractors.

It was the first, but certainly not the last time during this presentation, that I found myself yearning for properly disinterested debate on this hugely important issue.

All too often it seems that both sides – supporters and detractors of the alcohol trade – are champing at the bit to bite chunks out of each other. This leaves policy makers as bemused piggies in the middle trying to legislate in a sensible and constructive manner in the midst of what is effectively a heated debate.

In saying this I fully realise that these eminent scientists would respond that they are the only truly disinterested parties in this debate, presenting evidence-based research that overwhelmingly supports the argument for tighter control of alcohol.

Yet I am also aware that analysis is almost never totally disinterested, however distinguished or scrupulous the authors may be.

The language at the book launch also tended to confirm this.

Clearly emotive terminology was frequently used. Prof Edwards’ very deliberate use of the term ‘front organisation’ implicitly evokes comparisons to illegal, underhand or generally suspect activity. Prof Babor talked of the ‘raging epidemic’ of alcohol disease in society. The quote about alcohol being a ‘corporate-borne disease’ akin to malaria-bearing mosquitoes was Prof Casswell’s.

This was demonization territory.

The introduction to the book contains, as far as I can see, just two half sentences on the positive side of alcohol. It is described, somewhat baldly, as ‘a means of socialization and enjoyment’ (p.11) as well as ‘a source of pleasure for many consumers’ (p. v).

Surely an attempt to engage with the bigger picture would have served this book, and its authors, well in their attempts to influence policy makers?

It seems this was not deemed a priority.

Thomas Babor noted how ‘alcohol insinuates [emotive terminology again] itself into society and the economy’ but that its ‘benefits come at an enormous cost to society’.

Later he noted that, in the UK, estimated costs (quoted by the British Medical Association) included £21bn per annum to individuals and families, £2.8bn to public health services/care, £2.1bn to other public services, and £7.3bn to employers in lost productivity.

He compared the alcohol problem to that of tobacco – a comparison also explicitly made by the other two presenters.

That tobacco has moved from being a socially accepted norm to a pariah product with such bracing rapidity should give every wine lover a wake-up call as to the potential implications of this comparison.

Babor noted the ‘compelling’ evidence that raising taxes or prices on alcohol, as well as controlling its availability, were effective manners of controlling consumption. He also, interestingly, commented on the finding that modifying the drinking environment can help – something the drinks trade has long argued, ie that properly training staff and enforcing existing legislation would help in the overall aim of countering problem drinking.

Sally Casswell took up the baton on the subject of education by saying, ‘people often start throwing things at me when I talk about this – they don’t like the conclusions’.

Those conclusions are that ‘the evidence base does not support the effectiveness of education’ for reducing alcohol consumption, with most initiatives rated by the book at ‘zero effectiveness’ (on an effective scale of 0-3).

The evidence suggests that, while education may improve awareness, it does little to change behaviour. The one important caveat to this is that, when education is backed up by properly enforced policy – such as in the case of drink-driving campaigns followed up by random breath testing – such policies may prove useful.

Education should thus only be used as part of a broader strategy, ran the conclusion.

Yet education was singled out as being one of the most frequently used interventions by governments on the basis, in Prof Casswell’s view, that ‘it’s the easiest and steps on the fewest toes’.

Alcohol marketing also comes under fire in the book, while France’s Loi Evin and general approach to alcohol control was widely praised by the presenters as one of the best approaches to date at a regional level.

Once again, the alcohol trade, and wine lovers, should take note of this scientific body of opinion.

There was much further discussion, including a concerning reference to Prohibition as ‘not just a bad thing’ (Griffith Edwards). But I was left with the following issues burning in my mind:

• The authors claim to have complete independence. Yet the book is sponsored by the Society for the Study of Addiction (SSA), with Griffith Edwards thanking them for their funding of logistical and travel expenses. This seems to present, if not a clear conflict of interest, then certainly a questionable position from the outset.

• No differentiation that I can see is made, or attempted to be made, between different types of alcohol. In other words, all alcohol is lumped together in one simplistic category and labelled accordingly. It seems self-evident, however, that there are clear distinctions to be made between, say, first-growth claret and super-strength white cider sold in three-litre blue plastic bottles. A responsible, and enlightening, exploration of this subject should engage with this reality.

• There are several areas of the study for which little evidence or research was available in this book. More research is thus needed to make the findings of a study such as this – which is effectively only as good as the research it compiles and analyses – more credible and far-reaching: this, at least, is one point on which both the alcohol industry and the scientists can agree. The only issue then becomes that independent funding is needed to prevent accusations of bias. This is, at best, an optimistic aim in the near future.

• Do any of the book’s authors enjoy a tipple of an evening? It may be a glib thought – and one that I yearned to ask the academics – but it does seem that the anti-alcohol argument tends towards the utterly joyless in its attempts to nullify the potential of alcohol, consumed in moderation, to be a health-giving, inspiring, joyful and profoundly civilising and civilised force for good in society. Of course there will be costs associated with one of the world’s most widely consumed legally available drugs – but a proper debate should recognise and deal with both sides of this reality.

As a final note, it was interesting to record that, at least as far as I could see, there was no or very little representation by the alcohol-centric press or media at the event.

Is it cynical to think that it was deliberate that the invitations to such press members went out just days before the event, which was scheduled at the end of July in near-prime holiday time?

Probably. But the thought still niggles.

None of this stopped me, however, from happily contributing to the coffers of anti-alcohol science by purchasing a copy of the book for the princely sum of £20.

It’s well worth a read.

My only regret was that I didn’t manage to stop for lunch and thus see whether a glass of nicely chilled rosé was available for that much-needed post-launch R&R…

(by peter)

As I write, Susie is rustling up a monkfish curry (thank you Jo Pratt) with a squid starter while I’m tapping away. It’s a neat, and entirely appropriate division of labour: Plato, Hume and Marx, we are in your debt.

The kids are, blissfully, asleep.

The kitchen window has become like an interactive piece of art: it’s a stunning evening on the south coast, white-tipped waves bustling over a sea-green bay, lazy clouds hanging over the skyline, a vigorous evening sun drenching the scene in solidity and life.

(For regular readers: we haven’t been idiotic enough to move house yet again – this is holiday.)

And all the while we’re enjoying a glass of the smoky, citric and spicy Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, 13.5% (from £10.99, available in on-trade outlets, Madison Drinks, L’Art du Vin and www.littlebeauty.co.nz).

This particular wine arrived recently as part of an unsolicited samples package, along with a Pinot Gris from the same brand. More often than not, wines sent in this manner tend to be products that are as vacuous as their promotion is aggressive.

Not so in this case.

We tried the Pinot Gris first. This 2008 vintage from Malborough (12.9%, from £12.99) was nothing short of excellent.

Elegant on the nose, very faithful to the variety, with honeyed pear and apricot as well as  a touch of subtle minerality. On the palate it deftly walks the very fine line between being a proper Pinot Gris but not too rich, fat or cloying – it’s a refreshing dry wine with a subtle touch of residual sugar (7.6 g/l, as we’re reliably informed) which works brilliantly well. Succulent, gently spicy, long and elegant. Outstanding stuff (7.5/10).

Next we moved on to the Sauvignon Blanc. It achieved the same kind of excellent standard as the Pinot Gris, albeit (in Susie’s words), ‘beautifully different’.

An engaging nose, with fresh peas, tomato leaf but also passion fruit – an excellent mix of Marlborough sub-regional characteristics. The palate is soft-textured and succulent, with nippy acidity and pleasantly citric and vegetal finish (7/10 from Peter; 7.5/10 from Susie).

As for the background behind the brand, it’s produced by a company called Vinultra from fruit grown in the Waihopai Valley in Marlborough (Spy Valley being a brand commonly associated with this area). The winemaker is Eveline Fraser, formerly of Cloudy Bay. The brand was launched last year in the UK and is owned by Fleur McCree and Hemi Duns.

It’s great to see new and exciting brands emerging from Marlborough and making self-assured wines right from the outset. Smart branding, too – as I hope the accompanying photos show.

We’ll be looking forward to trying more from this promising stable. But for now, it’s time to try that monkfish curry. And what better to accompany it than a succulent Kiwi Savvy..?

(by peter & susie)

For those readers who think we’ve sunk into some sort of wine-soaked morass, or become wrapped up in newborn-baby bliss – think again.

While admitting that there is at least a grain of truth in both these charges – we have been busy on the wine front, and certainly revelling in the family fun – things have been as eventful as ever.

We’ve actually been taking advantage of this time to do some work under the radar (including quite a few tastings, which we’ll be reporting on soon) as well as having some rather enjoyable downtime.

And it’s the latter that forms the topic for this particular blog.

On Saturday we headed over to enjoy lunch courtesy of supermum and brilliant chef/presenter Jo Pratt – she who contributes the wonderful recipes to our School News bulletins and the site. You can check out her excellent new website by clicking here.

Jo effortlessly juggled preparing a sumptuous three-course spread, featuring pan-fried pimientos de padrón, a stunning seafood paella and strawberry pavlova, with entertaining us and four energetic kids.

So it’s no surprise to learn that her new (and third) book will be about her secrets of how to be a supermum while cooking inspired dishes for the family. Can’t wait, Jo! We’ll post more details here in due course.

Jo’s husband Phil, meanwhile, did some sterling work on the wine front. He expertly plied us with Prosecco (ideal for a warm summer’s lunchtime aperitif), Tio Pepe Fino sherry (bone dry and crisply chilled – perfect with tapas-style nibbles) and Eidos de Padriñan Albariño (a lovely drop from Lea & Sandeman and brilliant with the paella). Finally, with the pavlova, we were treated to a bottle – served blind, which of course meant that Susie guessed it within seconds – of Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2001. Wonderful, warming spice and orange marmalade flavours – a real treat, which Phil & Jo had brought back from a trip to South Africa a few years ago.

Can’t wait for Jo’s next recipe, which will feature in our August bulletin.

The next day we were entertaining a special guest, also a Master of Wine, here in Winchester – which of course meant more top drops and some pretty fine food.

Susie rustled up her classic summer starter of 18-month-matured Parma ham, fresh buffalo mozzarella and succulent nectarine served with fresh mint and balsamic vinegar. This we served with Tio Pepe En Rama – a sherry we’d been sent by the good people at González Byass.

There has been a fair bit of interesting innovation from the sherry category in recent years and this is a good example of a big company doing something different.

The en rama bit essentially means that it’s bottled swiftly, with minimal filtering or other treatments, which often strip flavour to ensure stability and shelf-life. Click on En Rama information for a fuller explanation of what is quite a technical issue.

The best way to drink fino or manzanilla sherry – the bone dry, fresh, crisp, delightful styles that work brilliantly well as an aperitif, especially when it’s warm – is straight from the cask. It’s meant to be fresh and vibrant.

That’s why bottles kept for years under the stairs or, worse still, half-empty behind bars, are such a crying shame: every day a fino spends in a bottle is a day that’s wasted.

This wine was bottled in May and they advise drinking it within a few months. We were thus a bit behind, which may have contributed to it tasting a little tired and lacking in vibrancy. But it was certainly different from the normal, crisp, tangy Tio Pepe mould, with some very pleasant rustic breadth and spice.

This is certainly an innovation we’d encourage and would like to see more of. I know González Byass are considering doing an autumn bottling, too – we’ll keep you posted.

Also on the menu was barbecued squid and Meon Valley beef burgers – bought from the Winchester Farmers’ Market that morning, and both delicious. Lamb koftas, home-made cumin homous and couscous with roasted vegetables made up the difference.

All of which was paired with Vosne-Romanée 2004, Domaine Jean Grivot (£22, Stone, Vine & Sun). A special treat – but then this was a special occasion. It definitely showed some of that peppery, leafy, almost dusty character associated with the 2004 vintage, but with very fine-grained tannin, elegant floral and red-berry character, with a lovely refreshing finish. Nothing ridiculously over the top, but ideal for a warm afternoon’s barbecue with pretty diverse flavours.

After which it was time for a wander (including the obligatory tea and cake) to take in the sights and atmosphere of a typically relaxed Sunday in Winchester.